"Scooping out the Pub Seat" A jig to create a curve in the seat.
To create the shape in the seat and make it more comfortable for sitting, I created a jig. I went through several options and finally settled on a router jig I found on finewoodworking.com. As a member, I have assess to the pattern at http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/tip/shape-chair-seats-with-a-router.aspx It required a base to put the seat blank in with sled-like guides on the side to create a raised back on the seat. Then a base plate for the router to run along a second sled guide to create the raised side and deep center. I then used a bowl router bit to slowly plunge down and scoop out the seat. I must admit it required a lot of sanding to smooth out the seat, but it gave me a great start.
“Straight Edge Guide for a Router” Create an Inexpensive Guide for Your Router.
A few weeks ago I did a blog on the shop made jig to break down large boards with a circular saw. I use a similar jig to make straight cuts with a router. You can combine the two straightedge guides into one for your circular saw and your router, but I actually have two different ones.
As I indicated in the previous blog, my tool of choice is the table saw for cutting straight edges, but when a board or panel is too large I resort to a circular saw. Same can be said for dados, but in the event the piece is too large to handle on the table saw I rely on my router. Just like with the circular saw I need a way to control the path of the tool to get an accurate cut. That's why I build a straight-edge jig.
“Breaking Down a Full Sheet of Plywood” Use an inexpensive homemade jig.
It might seem like something that shouldn't be that hard, but manipulating the large panel that can weigh over sixty pounds provides some interesting challenges. Most of us work in our shops alone, so just moving it around can be difficult. I know some woodworkers who take the whole sheet to the table saw, but I don't feel comfortable doing that, nor would I recommend it. First, it's dangerous to try to manipulate a sheet of plywood through the table saw even with help, but also it's difficult to keep such a large piece lined up and straight.
In a perfect world where money is not an issue, I would recommend everyone pick up a high-end track saw. But so rarely do we live in that world; even the least expensive track saw costs in excess of $200. If you are interested in a track saw in that price range, The Wood Whisperer does an excellent review of the Grizzly Track Saw.
“Outfeed Table for Full-Sized Cabinet Table Saw” Provides safe platform for catching cutoffs from the table saw.
In order to get the most out of your table saw by the safest and easiest means, you must have some sort of an outfeed device to support the work piece and waste piece through the entire cut. When I was still using my small portable saw I used a cheap roller stand. It worked okay, but when I got my new full-sized cabinet saw I wanted to build a real outfeed table. However, I didn't want to take up a lot of space in my small workshop. I found a pattern from Woodsmith Magazine that was strong and big enough to do the job, but it is also easy to remove and store when I need more space. I made a few changes to make it fit my needs, and it has been the best shop addition I've made so far. I used ¾" MDF for the top framed with hardwood. I build the legs and cleats with leftover pieces of hardwood. I cut miter gauge slots with a router, and then I put on a couple coats of polyurethane followed by a coat of wax. I put it together in just a few hours.