Miter Saw or Tablesaw.
Many of the Youtube makers I watch use a miter saw to make most of their crosscuts. I actually recently purchased a Jet compound sliding miter saw, but I use it primarily for cutting down rough stock. I use my tablesaw for most crosscuts. I feel like I get a more accurate cut that is easily repeatable with a stop block.
I usually use an aftermarket miter gauge from Inca. It is an excellent choice, but I also use a crosscut sled I built after watching Marc Adams’s “Tablesaw Techniques” posted on finewoodworking.com. It is an excellent series, and he has a simple way to square up the sled.
There are a few tricks I use to make the most accurate crosscuts on the tablesaw. First, I use a zero clearance insert to avoid tear out. When making a crosscut, tear out can be a big problem if you don’t support the wood fibers when making the cut. I also use a backer board on my miter gauge to avoid blow out at the end of the cut. It helps support the fibers as well. And if it is a delicate visible piece I’ll cover the cut line with blue tape to get a crisp clean cut. Also, I make a scribe line on the front side of my zero clearance insert using a straightedge against the teeth on the front and back of the blade. This allows me to line up my pencil line on the board with the scribe line for a precision cut. Finally, I use a good crosscut blade. When it comes to perfect cuts a good blade can make all the difference. Crosscut blades have either 60 or 80 teeth—more than the rip blade and most combination blades. Also, “most crosscut blades are ground with an alternating top bevel profile” (Woodsmith 48). This configuration slices the fibers across the grain much better than a rip or combination blade. It is worth the time it takes to change it out; the surface is smoother.
Works Cited
“Precision Table Saw Crosscuts.” Woodsmith #210 Dec 2013. 48-49.